Good Luck! If you do a conversion post pics of your bike when you've got it going. It hasn't gotten hot on my rides, so I think that is sufficient for my needs. and I got a thick piece of aluminum and screwed it to the controller using comptuer heat sink compound, and zip tied that ass'y to the frame where the wind hits it. I programmed the controller to do pedal assist power in 100W increments, the small switch that mounts on the handlebars toggles the pedal assist level, at 100W I get over 80 miles on a single battery charge. Notes: I bought the wrong twist throttle by accident, you have to rotate this one forward for it to work, but it turns out I like it because sometimes when I'm standing up on a long hill I'll pull back on the throttle without intending to, so this prevents that. Currie Technologies until recently has been focused on mass market ultra affordable sealed-lead-acid (SLA) powered bikes and scooters (see our 500 Ezip TrailZ review). Its 750W rear hub motor provides ample power, ensuring an efficient and enjoyable commute, especially in suburban and town settings, with a realistic range of approximately. If you're at all nervous about getting this right, which is a concern since you don't want to waste money, simply asking them to handle it in email works great, their customer service is 2nd to none. The RadCity 5 Plus secures its position as the runner-up in the Best Step-Through Commuter category, offering an impressive blend of features at an affordable price point. IIRC they didn't list the SX2 in their online spoke length calculator at that time, so I asked them to cut the left and right spokes (which turned out to be the same length for my motor) based on the ERD I got from the manufacturer. I attached a picture showing the spoke lengths they calculated for my order, and an axle stabilizer I bought on ebay as an afterthought.ĮRD - Effective rim diameter (ERD) explained I emailed the wheel manufacturer to get the exact ERD since my measurements always come up with a different number, lol. Their spokes worked perfectly for my wheel. I found that single cross works fine for my style of riding, all street, I haven't had any problems over dozens of trips sometimes involving going off curbs or through potholes. If you tell them the *ERD of your rim they will cut the right length spokes for you to lace their motor to your wheel, you have to specify single-cross (how many times each spoke crosses another spoke) or other crossing options. I recommend you consider asking them if any of your hardware will work: from my discussions it seemed like none of it would work with their controller. Order your BodyFloat today, with the seat post shim, or one of the solutions.I removed all of the old hardware and replaced it with Grin stuff, (order details below.) Grin has excellent customer service, I emailed them many times even apologizing if I was being annoying, they were totally supportive and answered all of my many questions. There are quite a few 'characteristics' of the machine (and all ebikes) that you will likely become familiar with, but don't let a few snags decimate your confidence, most 'issues' that can arise are simple enough to address, and BTW I'm putting great mileage on my Dash. BTW - You can reposition the clear vinyl stickers that are supposed to mitigate cable wear at the head tube should they be out of place. I'm sure a good mech would spot a few things to tweak (brake disc deflection, etc). Like pulling teeth so far, think I'll call them again.Ĭongratulations on your purchase, maybe have a mechanic check the front wheel bearings, mine were very tight. BTW - I'm in the process of pricing and possibly adding a second battery too. Depending on 'your' weight, terrain etc you should have no problem looping 25 miles with occasional throttle use or PAS 2, or 3. Now on a 'fun run' I can burn a full charge in 16 - 18 miles, PAS 4, cooling period required before recharge in that case. Stay in PAS 1 even on steep hills, just use the gears, 120 cadence for a few minutes, no problem, the motor really loves the help I usually go from PAS 1 to 3, just to clear a high traffic area. And by the way, once you are in “0” assist, you can always toggle back to any assist level with the assist level button.ġ85 lbs, PAS 1, 30 miles (my daily sunset ride), couple of big hills, strong rider. That’s right, 35 miles! I was stunned just as probably some of you are for a guy weighing 235 lbs. I put it in “0” assist level (by pressing the power button once) for slight declines and where pedaling was a breeze, and I went 35 miles before my battery died. A week later I went to an area that was mostly level with some slight grades and ran the bike in assist level 1. In assist level 1, I got home with about 4 miles left to go (I kept going back and forth near my home on a flat street until the battery died in order to find this out). In assist level 2, coasting down the hills and on the flats with it in zero (“0”) assist mode, I got about 16 miles (fortunately it was downhill the rest of the way and I was able to freewheel it home). There is a commute to and from my house that is about 18 miles.
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